Alishan Is Taiwan’s Most Serene Escape—And the Scenic Train Ride Is Just the Start

The lively night markets, colorful temples and neon-lit streets in Taiwan’s cities are an obvious hit with visitors, but venture beyond the urban sprawl, and you’ll discover remarkable natural landscapes, from tropical beaches to alpine lakes and soaring mountains. For those seeking a peaceful spot to disconnect from the world, away from the hustle and bustle of the cities, look no further than the Alishan National Scenic Area.

Dominated by the Alishan Mountains in the center of Taiwan, this region is known for its towering peaks, thousand-year-old forests, idyllic tea farms and bamboo forests. Alishan is also home to the country’s largest area of Yoshino cherry blossoms, so it’s no surprise that the most popular time to visit is from mid-March to April, when the blossoms are in full bloom.

Despite giving the impression that you’re in the middle of the wilderness, Alishan is surprisingly easy to access. You can drive or take the bus, but for a more unique experience, hop aboard the heritage Alishan Forest Railway. It climbs 7,000 feet through lush forests of ancient cedar and cypress, past charming little villages. The full line reopened just last year, after certain sections of the route were closed due to the damage from 2009’s Typhoon Morakot.

Originally opened in 1912 as a logging line during the Japanese colonial era, the railway’s primary function was to transport timber down to the ports. The railway was already popular with Alishan-bound tourists as far back as the 1930s, so while the ban on logging and the opening of the Alishan Highway in 1982 meant that the railway lost its original use, the line has remained an attraction for visitors.

The narrow-gauge railway departs from the coastal city of Chiayi, which is also the final stop on the way back down. It’s easy to reach from Taipei, with multiple regular and express trains daily. 

The final destination is Alishan, a mountain resort with a handful of hotels, restaurants and shops. There are numerous trails and walks around the area, including the Sister Ponds Trail, one of the main attractions in the region. Starting at Zhaoping Station, the trail leads through misty forests filled with giant trees, and around two pretty ponds where an overwater pagoda invites you to relax and take a breather. The trail ends at Shouzhen Temple, from where you can continue onto the Giant Tree Trail. It’s humbling to walk past these gigantic Formosan red cypress trees, some of which are over 2,000 years old.

The pristine landscape is straight out of a fairytale, and thanks to the absence of sound pollution, the only thing you hear as you stroll through nature is birdsong. It feels a world away from Taiwan’s bustling cities. 

If you’re pressed for time, a day trip to Alishan is possible, but there is so much to see that it’s worth exploring over a couple of days, as well as spending time in other towns and villages in the region. If you stay overnight, wake up early the next morning to catch the Alishan Sunrise Train. Departing from Alishan Station, it’s a half-hour ride to Zhushan Station, where you can catch the sunrise from the observation decks. (Buy your ticket online in advance, as the train sells out fast.) Watch a breathtaking sea of clouds form in the valley below, illuminated in a brilliant light as the sun rises from behind the Yushan Range, home to Yushan Mountain, Taiwan’s highest peak at 12,965 feet.

Fenqihu, a small town at the halfway point along the line, was once a regular stop for railway employees to have lunch, and remains a much-visited destination today. The bento lunchboxes that once fueled the workers have become an attraction in and of themselves. Many places serve them, but two of the best are Railway Mountain City Nostalgic Railway Bento (鐵道山城懷舊鐵路便當 on Google Maps) and Fenchihu Hotel. Stay the night and you’ll have more time to explore the specialty shops on the Old Street, learn about the locomotives at the 1912 Loco Shed, and hike through the bamboo forests on the Fenqi Trail, Cedar Boardwalk Trail and Fenrui Historic Trail. 

The picturesque village of Shizhuo is just a 10-minute drive from Fenqihu. It remains off the tourist trail, ideal for a relaxing getaway. A few homestays are set on the slopes above the village, with magnificent views of the farms and hills, especially when shrouded in mist at dawn and dusk. 

Much of Taiwan’s famous Alishan High Mountain Tea is grown in Shizhuo, with undulating fields of tea covering the surrounding hills. A walk through Shizhuo’s tea farms, soaking up the fresh countryside air, offers a much-needed respite from Taiwan’s buzzy cities. A network of hiking trails connects the various farms, such as the Mist Trail, Sunset Trail, Cloud Trail, Sakura Trail and Tea Trail. 

Tea lovers should pop into the award-winning Lin Yuan Tea Factory, where the owners will take you through a tasting and explain how their various teas are processed. Grown at an altitude of 3,280 feet to 5,249 feet, Alishan high mountain tea is renowned for its floral aroma and complex flavor profile, thanks to the altitude, climate and soil in which it’s grown. If you’re a big tea drinker, this is a unique opportunity to learn about one of Taiwan’s most sought-after blends, and even purchase some to take home. 

The reopening of the full Alishan Forest Railway line comes at an opportune time, as Taiwan is seeing a steady increase in foreign tourist arrivals. It’s generally easy to travel to, with visa-free entry for up to 90 days for citizens of the U.S., Canada and most European countries. Direct flights between Europe and Taipei depart from Frankfurt, London, Paris, Vienna, Brussels, Prague and other cities, while popular direct routes from the U.S. fly from New York, Los Angeles and San Francisco. New direct routes from Dallas and Phoenix are set to start within the next year.

Taiwan is a relatively small country, but it packs a punch with its natural beauty and sweeping panoramas. If you want to experience something different from Taiwan’s cities, make room in your schedule for a few days in Alishan. It’s worth the trip.